Buggy rent Zakynthos, behind the wheel yourself

Be at the starting point near Laganas at 8:00 for the briefing; the group leaves at 8:30, and the dirt begins about 20 minutes later at Keri. Then come photos of Turtle Island from Marathias, a drive through the Marathias forest and a stop above the Mizithres viewpoint.

Then comes Korakonisi, with 1.5 hours to swim, snorkel or relax, before a traditional Greek lunch at an old farmhouse in Loucha with unlimited soft drinks. After a last stretch through the Loucha Valley you are back at the start at about 15:00, after about 80 km of driving.

The route crosses the hills of the south-west, where pine forest, olive groves and farm tracks run down to limestone cliffs. From up here you look down on Marathonisi, the islet in Laganas Bay that visitors call Turtle Island, and on the pale Mizithres rocks standing in the sea.

The island earned another name long ago: the Venetians called it the flower of the East for its many flowers, and it remains a haven for the loggerhead sea turtle and the Mediterranean monk seal. On a buggy you see that nature from the land, at a distance that leaves it undisturbed.

The lunch is the other constant. Reviewers praise home-cooked Greek food served under the trees, generous and fresh, with cold water and soft drinks topped up all day. One guest writes that she would book the whole trip again just for that lunch, and more than one admits to underestimating how much real off-road driving the day holds.

The scores say the same thing in numbers: 4.96 from 306 reviews, with 5 for the guide, 5 for transportation and 4.9 for value for money. One honest warning recurs in the comments as well: you will come back covered in dust.

May, June, September and October are kinder for driving. May averages a high of 24.9 °C and October 24.3 °C, while September brings the first autumn rain, with 66 mm in the month. The light is softer then, and the dust settles faster.

The summer is also the season of the turtles. Loggerheads mate in Laganas Bay and nest on its beaches from mid-May to late August; on the buggy day you see Turtle Island from the hills of Marathias.

Heat and drought bring a different rule. When the wildfire risk is high, Greek Civil Protection may close some forest and mountain trails, and the operator then drives alternative routes it has chosen in advance. The stops can shift, but the day goes on.

Plan for the sun whatever the forecast. UK travel advice for outdoor days in Greece is to avoid the peak hours of sun and carry a hat, sunscreen and plenty of water. On the buggy day the operator hands out ice-cold water at the stops, and the bandana you are given helps against both sun and dust.

Cancelling costs nothing and brings a full refund as long as you do it 24 hours ahead, and the place can be held today with payment later. That makes it easy to book early in the holiday and keep a spare day in case the weather or a trail closure moves the date.

If you came looking for buggy hire in Zante without a guide, compare the small print before you choose. UK travel advice warns that insurance sold by a hire company usually covers only third parties, and that the company is likely to charge you for any damage.

Keep the camera in a zipped pocket while you drive and take it out only at the stops. The listing puts a camera on the packing list, and the dust of the tracks is hard on lenses and screens. A soft cloth in a sealed bag saves many blurred shots.

At Korakonisi, let the cove be the subject. Under a high sun the water over the pale rock turns shades of green and blue that look unreal on a screen, and a waterproof pouch lets you shoot from the water itself. Ask your fellow drivers for a photo of you at the wheel: it is the picture you will want most afterwards.

Take the word dirty literally. The fine dust of a dry track finds its way into every seam, so leave pale clothes at the hotel and wear something you will not mind washing twice. Closed shoes are better on the pedals than sandals, and water shoes make the rocky shore at the swim stop easy.

Wear the swimsuit under your clothes so the cove is all swimming, and keep a dry layer for the drive to lunch. Sunscreen goes on before 8:00, not after the first stop: the morning sun on an open buggy is stronger than it feels with the wind in your face.

The guide drives the leading buggy and the group follows in a line. That shapes the day: you choose how you drive within the line, and the guide chooses the tracks, the pace and when to stop. Listen at the briefing, and ask if anything about the controls of the Polaris RZR is unclear.

The operator's terms are simple and strict. Only holders of a valid permanent license may drive, no alcohol is allowed before or during the tour, and damage caused by ignoring the guide's instructions is the participant's responsibility.

The park keeps vehicles away: cars, motorbikes, bicycles, horses and dogs are not allowed on its nesting beaches, and visitors are asked to keep within about 5 metres of the sea. If you meet a protected animal, stay at least 15 metres away.

For a quieter evening, a van tour visits Keri and the Myzithres viewpoint at sunset, from $52. In the mountains of the north, the Region of the Ionian Islands points walkers and cyclists to the trails of Mount Vrachionas.

It is not for everyone. The listing says the day is not suitable for children under 6, pregnant women or drivers under 18, and the operator's own terms set the line for children at 8. Families with young children should ask before booking.

Expect a long, bumpy, dusty day with an early start. If that sounds like a chore, the jeep tour, where a guide drives and picks you up at the hotel, covers mountain villages in 7 hours from $76. If it sounds like fun, the buggy is the day to book.